I bought this tree on eBay in 2006, and it is spent some time in the ground, had a few chops, and a few different fronts. But it is finally started to settle into its shape, and I decided to put it in our club’s annual show this year.
I have been bored with some of the trees lately, and less than inspired, so I thought it would be good to try to put a tree or two in the show that have never been shown before. A couple reasons, first, it adds some variety to the show. Second, it pushes me to advance different trees to a higher level. This year, the quince and the Stewartia will be making their debut appearances in a show.
Click HERE to read the rest of this lovely post from Brian at Nebari Bonsai…
Repotting is done for several reasons: to work on and prune the roots, to change and refresh the soil, and to adjust the planting angle. Sometimes all three. Here are a few examples of each.
First up is a “normal” repotting of a Chinese quince, which is pot-bound. All soil is removed, roots are trimmed back, and heavy roots are removed from underneath the base. The tree is secured back into the same pot, and fresh soil is worked in:
This is the time of year that all bonsai growers start to think of repotting, (depending on where you live, of course) Repotting is the one most important thing to get right to keep your babies happy!
Continue reading to see how an expert does it… HERE
For the first time since it’s been in a bonsai pot, this shohin crabapple, Malus sargentii has set a couple fruits. Very exciting, and thought I’d better get a few photos while they’re still on the tree. It’s been a nearly 5-year wait, and the red fruits look really nice against the blue glaze drop on the Roy Minarai pot.
I will be taking a few weeks away from posting, but plan to get back to it in late September.
Read the rest of this post and check out Brian’s website over at NEBARI BONSAI
I candle-cut this pine on 7/1 hoping it would finish the new flush of growth in time for the September show. With 50 days behind and 20 days ahead, it’s going to be close. Typically it takes 100 days for JBP to grow and harden off a second flush after candle cutting. I’m banking on short needles, and not completely hardened off by show time.
Stewartia is a hearty grower, and this one has been trimmed back several times already this season. However, simply pruning around the profile seems to create some coarse whorls and shoots that will need to be removed later anyway. So this time (mid-July) I went through the tree, branch by branch, and reduced shoots to pairs of leaves throughout the tree, and removed those shoots that were too coarse to use in the design. In essence, I did a winter pruning in mid-summer.
Throughout this tree’s 12 years of training, I have photographed and documented every step in detail, to study the cause-effect response of each technique applied, as well as the timing of that response. One thing I have learned is that candle-cutting in summer should be done about 100 days before your area’s average first frost. This gives new growth time to grow and harden off before winter, but not so much time that needles get too long.
Summer candle-cutting is the removal of this year’s growth, right down to the base. It leaves last year’s growth in place, so basically it makes the tree look like it did in March before it started growing.
Continue reading another fascinating post from Brian at NEBARI BONSAI...
This year’s blooming was spectacular. The blooms covered the entire tree, they were a deep red, and due to selective pruning over the last few years, only a few flowers of the “mother variety”. Here is the show.
This arakawa has already had one haircut this spring, and has continued to grow denser. In order to keep the internodes short, I am continuing to cut back any extension growth back to the first (or second) node.
Additionally, I removed one of each pair of leaves in the crown, and outer, stronger shoots…
Read the rest of this informative and fascinating post over at NEBARI BONSAI